Wednesday, Dec. 30 - Buenos Aires to Ushuaia

This was a travel day. We needed to get to Ushuaia, at the very southern tip of South America. Ushuaia bills itself as the most southerly city on the globe. Our flight did not leave until 2:05pm, checkout was at 10:00am, so we had some time to kill. We took a walk through the park near the hotel and then headed back to the square. We had a leisurely coffee. The square is a very well known place in San Telmo. Often Tango dancers will show up and put on a show for the folks frequenting the square. As we had just ordered our 2nd cups of tea/coffee, a pair of Tango dancers began to perform. We watched that for a bit and then made our way back to the hotel to catch a ride to the Airport.

Buenos Aires has 2 airports, the international airport and the domestic airport. We were going through the domestic airport this time. It was very easy to get through, no lines for ticketing or security. Our meal was a challenge. It was not clear how to get your food after you ordered and we had a significant language barrier with the staff. Eventually we got our meal. We took off for Ushuaia, there was a stop in El Calafate but we did not change planes. Total travel time was about 5 hours.

When we got to the hotel we met a very nice couple, Ralph and Trish, from Memphis. They were taking the same ship to Antarctica as we were. Trish wanted to go to Tierra Del Fuego National Park, she organized a guided tour through the hotel and asked us to join them. We had been contemplating a tour of the park, but I originally thought we would not have enough time. Well it turned out that it fit perfectly into our schedule.

We had a nice dinner at the hotel including native King Crab caught right in the channel facing the hotel. In many ways Ushuaia is similar to Alaska. It has snow capped mountains which drop right down into the sea, and the weather in Summer is more often than not cool and cloudy. It often rains. However, the trees and vegetation make it look distinctly different than Alaska. And the mountains that we saw are not as dramatic. We enjoyed watching the sunset as we finished our meal. The sun set at around 10:30pm. And it is apparently a special event to see a sunset here in Ushuaia, as they are quite rare.

Becky having tea in Plaza Dorrego, San Telmo Plaza Dorrego San Telmo Tango Dancers at Plaza Dorrego Sunset over Ushuaia at about 10:30pm

Tuesday, Dec. 29 - Buenos Aires

I got out of bed at about 9:30am, Becky slept until 10:00am. These Portenos (if you live in Buenos Aires you are a Porteno) must be sleep deprived. We are told they keep normal business hours, so they wake early. They don't seem to take a siesta, and With late dinners you have to wonder how much sleep they get. We must be missing something.

We were thinking we would tour the cemetery where Evita is buried. It is one of the standard tourist sites. After we were on our way we decided that Evita could wait til we returned from Antarctica. We went to the Obelisco that is on "9 de Julio" Avenue. The Obelisco is a 220 foot tall monument, placed in the middle of what is called "the widest boulevard in the world", 9 de Julio Avenue. Yep, it's wide and has those huge billboards including a large brightly lit electronic billboard. It is tree lined with 10-15 story buildings facing the street. It is also a mass of humanity.

After 9 de Julio Avenue it was the pedestrian avenue of Florida Street. Geez!, couldn't we get a few more bodies on the street, surely another 1000 or so wouldn't be noticed. Florida Street is primarily shopping. During our cruise down Florida Street it started rain pretty hard. Now what to do? Oh yeah, I forgot. Find a place to get a snack and a glass or two of wine. There was a Marriott hotel on the corner so we ducked into there.

After the rain subsided we went back to the Plaza de Mayo and went inside the cathedral, it was very nice inside with the traditional layout, but the outside was not traditional but more like a Greek or Roman temple. We did not know what it was at first. After that we made our way back to the hotel. We needed to get ready for the Tango show.

The Tango show was at a nice theatre facing 9 de Julio Avenue. Shuttle bus service to the theatre was included. This was a dinner show. We were seated next to a couple from Brazil and adjacent to them was a couple from China, Shanghai. So Becky and I speak English and some Spanish. The Brazilian man knew Portugese, Spanish, and a bit of English. The Brazilian woman knew only Portuguese. The Chinese knew Portuguese. We all had a good time, "talking".

Then the show was excellent. It was a live performance of Tango dancers with the band members perched at the rear over the top of the stage. There were probably at least 500 people in the audience. The band and the dancers were excellent in my humble opinion. It's funny how people ridicule things as being "touristy". Often popular tourist attractions are popular for a reason. Tourist aren't really "tricked" into attending. Here is the website for the show, Tango Porteno.

Vegetable Stand in San Telmo View of the Obelisco looking down Roque Saenz Pena Avenue from the Plaza de Mayo Buildings along 9 de Julio Traffic on 9 de Julio More 9 de Julio Becky at the Tango show

Monday, Dec. 28 - Buenos Aires

We arrived in Buenos Aires at around 10:00am. It turned out that on this very day the Argentina Government began collecting a Reciprocity Fee for entrance into the country, $131 per person for Americans. Apparently the US government has charged Argentinians a similar fare for years. The fee is good for 10 years. We made arrangements through the hotel for a pick-up at the airport. We found a sign with our name taped to a pole amongst many others. We were then escorted to our taxi and we made our way to the San Telmo neighborhood of Buenos Aires where our hotel was located.

San Telmo is the oldest neighborhood of Buenos Aires. It has narrow cobblestone streets and sidewalks. The buildings are of an older European architecture and there are some open air cafes on the square. There are also many nice antique stores. This gives the neighborhood an intimate feel.

When we arrived at the hotel prior to check-in time our room was not yet ready. While we waited for our room one of the hotel staff members, Carolina, took out a tourist map and gave us the lowdown on things to see. However, before we saw anything it was time for a nap. After about 2 hours we we headed out.

We walked through San Telmo and then made our way to the Plaza de Mayo, in the Centro district of the city. This is where many of the major government buildings are located. I read that there is almost always a demonstration in progress on the plaza. Well sure enough, there was a group of about 30 demonstrators on a large elevated platform apparently demanding justice for the deaths of several people. Many of the demonstration signs had photos of those killed. I presume it pertained to many of the killings that occurred by the military during the period of military rule. The military government gave up power around 1991, but of course those kinds of wounds do not heal easily, if at all. We were not able to find out any details concerning the demonstration as it appeared to be wrapping up. The police in riot gear were moving on and shortly thereafter the demonstrators left. We were not concerned for our safety, as it seemed like a normal procedure. So perfect timing, that meant I could get on the platform! It was a good place to take photos. Maybe it is a good place to shout out about your favorite cause, but I chose not to find out.

So after visiting the Plaza de Mayo we headed across the estuary to an area called Puerto Madero. It is a very modern area, shiny and clean with restaurants, hotels, shopping, and condos. We perused several blocks and decided it was time for wine. We had a leisurely glass of wine outside while overlooking the estuary. It was a pleasant summer evening. After that we made our way back to the hotel.

Next was dinner. Classic Argentinean fare is centered around beef, grilled over charcoal and accompanied by a nice red wine. That's my kind of country! However, dinner hour is not until 10:00pm in Argentina. We decided we would try to head over early at about 9:00pm. We were running late and we did not get to the grill until 9:45pm and they were full. We waited outside for about 30 minutes. That was fine, as mentioned before it was a nice warm summer evening. Inside we ordered ribs and steak with potatoes roasted in butter and rosemary. We had a salad as well. The meat was tasty and the steak was very tender just as reputed. It wasn't until I dug into the ribs that I remember one of the guidebooks said that the ribs would be a bit tough, its just how they serve it. I did OK with it. Service was slow, we were not out of there until 1:30am.

It was a nice first day.

I just want to mention the hotel. We stayed at Hotel Gurda in the San Telmo section of Buenos Aires. It is a boutique hotel. That means it is small. Becky and I really like these type of hotels. Sometimes the rooms are quirky as is the layout of the hotel. But as long as they are clean the quikiness just adds interest. And in this case the hotel was clean and served a nice breakfast. But the best thing about small hotels is the service. The staff is typically friendly and they spend a good deal of time giving sightseeing advice and telling you how to get around. This enables you to make most efficient use of your time. That eliminates a lot of potential frustration. On top of it, it was cheaper than many of the big chains.

San Telmo Barrio Plaza de Mayo Puerto Madero Hotel Bedroom Quirky 2nd bed, up in a loft

Sunday, Dec. 27 - Off for the Southern Hemishpere

This was departure day for our big trip. We had contemplated leaving the day after Christmas, but decided that could drive us crazy. Good decision. The flight to Buenos Aires was basically uneventful. We flew out of SFO at at around noon and got into Miami a little after 8:00pm. We had a 3 hour layover and then it was on to Buenos Aires. I hate sleeping on planes. I slept some but not nearly enough.

Flight time was about 5 hours to Miami and then 10 hours to Buenos Aires. Argentina is 5 hours ahead of Pacific time. So you don't have much choice, you need to get some sleep on the plane to be able to function when you arrive.

I found it interesting that we flew right over Cuba in-route to Buenos Aires. It brings up some curious questions. Does Cuba mind that planes from the US use their airspace (we were on an American Airlines flight)? Did the airlines tell Fidel, "Hey, we know our countries hate each other, but we really like to party in Rio. You don't mind if we fly right over the top of your country to save some time, right?". Fidel says, "Yeah sure, maybe you can do me another favor and put a fresh coat of paint on those barracks at Guantanamo. It's bringing down the neighborhood. Mi agimgo, Hugo in Venezuela, is giving me a hard time about it.".

Trip Details - Antarctica/Argentina/Chile

On this trip we slowed down the itinerary compared to our previous trips. We will be spending a total of 5 nights in Buenos Aires. In the past, 3 nights was the max for any particular city. And, when we stepped off the plane we made a beeline to the next destination. But with long flights, where you have to sleep on the plane, I get a little tired. So this time when we get off the plane in Buenos Aires we will make a beeline to the hotel. After 2 nights in Buenos Aires we will then continue south to catch our ship to Antarctica. When we return to Buenos Aires after Antarctica we will spend 3 nights there. That sounds pretty leisurely to me.

We have not planned many sightseeing tours for Argentina. This is also a change from previous trips. I will probably arrange for us to see a Tango show in Buenos Aires and a wine country tour in Mendoza. But other than that we do not have specific plans. We will just take in what each day offers.

Here are the trip details:

Date	Activity
12/27	Leave SFO at 11:55am. There is a 3 hour layover in Miami.
12/28	Arrival in Buenos Aires at 10:15am. Buenos Aires is 5 hours ahead of US Pacific Time, so it will feel like 5:15am to us. We will drop our luggage off at the hotel and then start exploring the city. 2 nights in Buenos Aires. Buenos Aires Hotel: Gurda Tango Boutique Hotel $150/night
12/29	Explore the San Telmo section of Buenos Aires. Go see a Tango show and eat Argentinean beef.
12/30	We will have a leisurely morning before we make our way to the airport for a 5 hour flight to Ushuaia, departing at 2:05pm. 1 night in Ushuaia. Ushuaia Hotel: Hotel Los Nires  $$-Included with the Antarctica expedition.
12/31	We will most likely start the day exploring the nearby glacier. Another option is to visit the Tierra Del Fuego National Park. Embarkation for the voyage is at 4:00pm, New Year's Eve. 9 nights on board, 1 night in a tent. Onboard Accomodations: Ocean Nova - 68 passenger ship
1/1	Day 1, crossing Drake Passage.
1/2	Day 2, crossing Drake Passage.
1/3	Antarctica Accomodations: A tent on the ice.  $195/pp
1/4	Antarctica
1/5	Antarctica
1/6	Antarctica
1/7	Antarctica
1/8	Crossing Drake Passage.
1/9	Crossing Drake Passage.
1/10	Disembarkation at about 8:00am. Take the 11:45am flight back to Buenos Aires. 3 nights in Buenos Aires. Buenos Aires Hotel: Hotel Home
1/11	Buenos Aires
1/12	Buenos Aires
1/13	Travel to Mendoza. Depart at 8:00am for a 2 hour flight. Explore Mendoza. 2 nights in Mendoza. Mendoza Hotel: Park Hyatt Mendoza  $185/night
1/14	Winery Tour
1/15	Travel to Santiago. Depart at 11:10am for a 1 hour flight. Explore Santiago. 1 night in Santiago. Santiago Hotel: Hotel Plaza San Francisco  $179/night
1/16	Explore Santiago. Our flight back to the US departs late at 11:05pm.
1/17	We have a 2 hour layover to get through Immigration/Customs in Dallas. Our flight arrives in SFO at 9:40am.

Antarctica/Argentina/Chile Itinerary

Our itinerary has been finalized. Most importantly we have chosen the ship to take to Antarctica. We have decided upon Quark's Adventure ship departing Ushuaia, Argentina on December 31. Yes, this is the smallest ship of the choices that made our short list. However, we expect this to be a once in a lifetime trip. So we will endure the Drake Passage on a small ship, but we will have a maximum of 68 other passengers with us, we will have 5 days to explore the Antarctica Pennisula, and we have one night of camping. That's right, we are taking a camping vacation this year. In Antarctica!

The advantage of having only 68 passengers on board is that all passengers can go ashore at one time. If there are more than 100 passengers on the ship then the shore excursions have to be broken up into groups of 100 people or less (I believe this includes guides). This is part of a voluntary code of conduct to which members of the International Association of Antarctica Tour Opertators (IAATO) abide. This limits the environmental impact of tourism on Antarctica. The Obama administration has recently expressed a desire to incorporate the 100 person limit into the International Antarctic Treaty. That is one reasons we rushed into this trip. You never know the future impact of government regulations. More regulation always has the potential of limiting access and/or increasing costs.

All of our flights have been booked. As soon as I know the hotels/activities, I will post a more detailed itinerary.

Let me also make an open invitation to any our familiy and friends that might like to join us while we are in Argentina. You can wander Buenos Aires, taste Argentine beef, take in a Tango, shop, enjoy the nightlife, and sip on Malbec in the wine country. Also, don't forget that it is the austral summer in January.

Argentina/Antarctica Dec. 27 - Jan. 17
Date	Activity	Overnight
Dec. 27	Depart SFO 11:55am
Dec. 28	Arrive in Buenos Aires 10:15am	Sleep in Buenos Aires
Dec. 29	Buenos Aires	Sleep in Buenos Aires
Dec. 30	Travel to Ushuaia	Sleep in Ushuaia
Dec. 31/ Jan. 09	Antarctica Adventure ship	Sleep on board
Jan. 10	Disembark/travel to Buenos Aires	Sleep in Buenos Aires
Jan. 11	Buenos Aires	Sleep in Buenos Aires
Jan. 12	Buenos Aires	Sleep in Buenos Aires
Jan. 13	Travel to Mendoza	Sleep in Mendoza
Jan. 14	Mendoza/Wine Tour	Sleep in Mendoza
Jan. 15	Travel to Santiago	Sleep in Santiago
Jan. 16	Depart Santiago 11:05pm
Jan. 17	Arrive in SFO 9:40am

Planning for Antarctica

The planning for Antarctica has begun. We will most likely be going through Argentina so we can plan a couple of stops in that country. There are several popular places to visit in Argentina. There is Buenos Aires, which many claim is the finest city in South America. There is the Lakes District near the Andes. Patagoinia is a wilderness area that attracts me. Let's not forget Mendoza, a world class wine region focusing on Malbec and Cabernet wines. There is also the Iguazu Falls at the Brazilian border, one of the most spectacular falls on the planet. A short hop over to Uraguay and you can relax on a world class beach facing a warm Atlantic Ocean. Did I mention that Argentina is a big country? It only means time and money. That forces you to make priorities.

Priorities, priorities . . . . Ok, the first priority is not even Argentina. It is Antarctica. So first we need to pick a boat, and then Argentina will follow.

Crusing to Antarctica seems like a bold move. You have to be dedicated to set foot on the "White Continent". It is far away and costs a small fortune. There seem to be several tradeoffs. A maximum of 100 people can go ashore at one time. This is an agreement by which most tour operators abide. This is to limit human impact on the continent. That means larger ships do not offer shore trips or if they do they are operating outside of what is considered environmentally friendly. So, on larger ships you generally view Antarctica from the topside of a ship. Can you say you have been to a continent without setting foot on it? I checked the rule book. The answer is no. So, we need to go on a smaller ship. That's great except it costs more and then there is Drake Passage. I have not traveled on many ships so I don't know if I'm prone to seasickness. If you are prone to seasickness, then maybe Drake Passage on a small ship isn't a great idea. Drake Passage is a notorious rough sea. Most of the ships take 2 days to cross Drake Passage. That's a lot of time to vomit.

Let's take a look at some of the options. Here are some of the ships touring Antarctica.

ZEGRAHM & ECO EXPEDITIONS
www.zeco.com

They offer one 3 week cruise that travels several days by the Antarctica Penisula as well as The Falklands, and South Georgia. Prices start at $13,000/per person. The cruise begins on Jan. 3 and ends Jan. 24. The ship takes 158 passengers.

Lindblad/National Geographic Expeditions
www.expeditions.com

They offer both an Antarctica tour and an Antarctica/Falklands/South Georgia tour. The Antarctica tour is 15 days. The ship can accommodate 148 passengers. They do make shore excursions, but it is not clear how they work around the aggreement preventing more than 100 people on shore at a time. It includes charter flights to Ushuaia (Argentina) from Santiago (Chile) and back. It also includes a one night stay in Santiago, Chile. Prices start at about $11,000. Potentially, we could take the tour and then from Santiago go explore Argentina. Mendoza is a short distance away by air or bus. Buzz Aldrin will be on board the Jan. 7th cruise.

Polar Star Expeditions
www.polarstarexpeditions.com

Polar Star Dec. 28 - Jan. 25 $14,000 per person. They use a 100 passenger ship. It looks like a nice trip, but almost a month at sea is a bit much for us.

Quark Expeditions
www.quarkexpeditions.com

Antarctica Adventure - 11 nights including one night in Ushuaia. This is the smallest ship we would consider, 68 passengers. There is an opportunity to camp overnight on the continent. You spend a total of 5 days touring the Antarctica continent.
Dec. 30 - Jan. 10 - $10,000 per person

Classic Antarctica - 10 nights including one night in Ushuaia. Travel is on a comfortable 112 passenger ship. On this tour you spend 4 days in and around Antarctica.
Jan. 6 - Jan. 16 - $7,690 per person

Quark has the most ships and the largest choice of itineraries. We first became interested in a trip to Antarctica because of a Discovery channel program that featured one of Quark's trips. There are cheaper alternatives to the prices I have listed if you can get a bunk in a triple cabin. It is also cheaper if you travel outside the peak season of January/February. The prices quoted here are for a twin cabin in high season.

The short list is between one of the two Quark trips or the Lindblad/National Geographic trip. I am leaning towards the Antarctica Adventure tour with Quark. It is more expensive and on a smaller ship, but I like the idea of spending 5 days near the continent with a small group of people. We would ensure that sea sickness medicine is liberally applied.

The Lindblad trip looks like a high quality trip. The pricing is very reasonable considering the trip duration and also includes the charter flight to Ushuaia.

Decisions, decisions.