Amateur Traveler: Saturday, May 23

On this day we were scheduled for an all day tour on Lake Titicaca. It included the floating islands of UROS and the Island of Taquille. The van was scheduled to get us at 7:15am. I was not feeling well at all. I decided to get out the first aid book and take a look at the checklist of symptoms for Mild Altitude Sickness:

Headache - Check
Difficulty Sleeping - Check
Loss of Appetite - Check
Nausea - only if I lifted a finger

In addition there is this little description:

Sleep is often fitful, with frequent awakenings and an irregular pattern of breathing characterized by periods of rapid breathing alternating with periods of no breathing

Yeah, it was the periods of no breathing that I found most annoying. So I definitely had altitude sickness, I didn't think I would have this much problem but that's how it goes.

I started taking the altitude sickness prevention medicine my doctor gave me. I took an Advil, Pepto Bismal, and some coca tea. I still didn't feel well and asked one of the hotel employees about Sorroche. The locals call Altitude sickness Sorroche. I didn't think I would be able to go on the tour. She said it usually lasts one to two days and she made me an herbal tea, claiming it would calm my stomach.

Well, I was convinced to give the tour a try. As soon as we got in the Van my stomach settled down, maybe there was something to that herbal tea. We got on the boat and took off for the day.

Our first stop was at one of the floating islands. There are many floating islands in this particular area of the lake. On each island lives several families. The islands are made from reeds that grow in the lake. The dense pack of roots are cut out of the lake bottom. These acutally float and form the bottom of the island. Then the reeds are laid over the top about 2 feet thick and form the top of the island. Upon this are built the houses, also made of reeds. The reeds also used in their diet. It tastes similar to celery. Fascinating.

Upon arrival to one of the floating islands we were all seated on a bench, made of reeds of course, and listened to a short presentation by several of the residents. They talked a bit about how the islands are made and how they live. After the presentation a resident would invite you to see their home. I have to admit, the reed house I visited looked rather comfortable and included a TV powered by solar panels. My host also showed me his trout farm. Finally, we were taken to an area where each household had a set of crafts for sale. We were encourage to purchase the crafts and asked not to just give a donation. The ruling council of the islands wants the people to earn any money received. I bought a mobile for our Granddaughter, Tristan got a small reed boat, and Becky got a tapestry.

Next we took off for the Island of Taquille. This is a large island with an indigenous population that continues to maintain a traditional way of life. We had to hike a ways uphill to reach an outdoor area where we attended a demonstration. The demonstration showed how the natives lived off the land, grew crops, raised sheep, and used plants and herbs. They showed us how they weaved wool into cloth to create their colorful hats.

Lunch was provided by the natives. To get to lunch, we had to continue hiking nearly to the top of the island, now we were near 13,000 feet in elevation. I was still feeling fatigued, but none of the other Gringos were moving any faster than I. We arrived at the dining room, comfortable place even if it had a dirt floor. Lunch was a delicous vegatable soup, grilled trout or an omelette, rice and potatoes. And I felt a little better after eating. After dinner we were treated to a little music and dance. We then proceeded down the other side of the island and took the boat back to Puno.

For the evening we strolled around town for a bit and stopped into a place called Don Piero for pizza. We headed for bed hoping for a better night's sleep then the last.

One other thing about our hotel room. It had a nice modern interior. However, there was no heat. At least the locals could burn dung, we didn't have shit! In the mornings, Puno had an outside temperature of about 28 degrees. Inside our hotel room it was about 55 degrees. On this second night at the hotel they provided a portable electric heater and feet warmers inside the foot of the bed. Well, that bumped the temperture in the room to 60 degrees. Better than nothing.

One of the Reed Islands of UROS, Puno in the background