Sunday, January 25, 2009

Upcoming Trips

We are in the midst of planning 2 trips.

The first trip will be a UK/Netherlands trip. Through the geneology work Becky's mother has done, she has discovered relatives in Netherlands. She has been in contact with them and wants Becky and I to help organize a trip to visit them. We will be visiting England, Wales, and Netherlands. We are also looking exploring the option of driving the Rhine in Germany, but we will see. The trip is scheduled for May/June.

The second trip will be South to America/Antartica. If you want to visit all the continents on the planet you have to include Antartica. There are cruises that leave from the very southern tip of Argentina for Antartica. Bonus, 2 continents in one trip! The cruises travel during our winter, which of course is summer south of the equator. We are thinking of including a tour of Argentina while we are at it. Also, Becky's cousin from Victoria, BC wants to go to Bolivia to visit an Exchange student they hosted some time ago. Ideally, we would go to Peru to visit the Machu Picchu, Buenos Aires in Argentina, and Patagoina in Argentina in addition to the Antartica cruise. If we could arrange our schedule with Becky's cousin we would consider Bolivia as well. That is probably too much to do in one trip but we will see what happens.

Sunday, December 21, 2008

Italy/Switzerland Review

Italy/Switzerland – Final Thoughts

Obviously Becky and I enjoyed the trip. I was surprised how well everything came together. I admit to having done some extensive planning. But you expect to miss a train or arrive at a hotel only to have your reservation misplaced. None of that happened. Becky did start out with an expired passport. But that was quickly remedied and had very little impact on our trip.

Here is an evaluation:

Itinerary

I would probably change two things. In the Berner Oberland I would stay in Wengen instead of Murren. If you stay in Wengen it is much closer to the Jungfrau “Top of Europe” attraction. The couple we met from North Carolina have been going to Switzerland for years. They said they enjoy Wengen. The other change would be to get a car and tour Tuscany instead of camping out in Siena. Siena was nice but did not give us the Tuscan experience we were looking for.

The day we spent traveling from the Italian Riviera to the Alps was long, but still relaxing. It was worth it to experience the varied destinations of Italy and Switzerland. Next time we will probably fly into one city and out another, you can cover more ground that way and the airfare does not seem to be that much more. Given we were visiting in late September I would also say that it may have been wiser to do the northern end (colder) first and then make our way south.

Hotels

Here I would would probably substitute a Tuscan villa for the Siena hotel. Other than that the rest of the accommodations worked out A-OK.

Transportation

Using train travel was a great move. They are generally frequent and efficient. The train stations are usually in central locations that avoid taxi fares or extra bus rides. Storing your luggage at the train station and then visiting a town or sight for a short time, really makes for efficient use of time. The German Train website, http://reiseauskunft.bahn.de/bin/query.exe/en, is invaluable for planning itineraries by rail.

Budget

The budget held together pretty well. We were well aware of what things would cost. We also knew that the dollar was really sucking. Switzerland was very expensive, more than we expected. Transportation and dining in that country can really hit the ceiling. I spent more on wine than I had planned, I don’t think it’s a crime.

Packing

I was amazed at what I could pack in my little carry-on suitcase. It has a separate section for my laptop. This is very convenient. I did not have to struggle with a separate laptop case and nobody really knows you have a laptop. We were able to cram everything we needed into those carry-ons. Guidebooks and reading books can be bulky and heavy. I am wondering if I could use the new Kindle from Amazon to take electronic books. It could save space and weight.

We did not have enough warm clothing for Switzerland. By traveling light it is hard to be prepared for all unexpected events. And in this case the problem was easily remedied by purchasing what we needed.

We packed only quick drying synthetic materials. For instance we did not bring denim jeans. They would be too bulky and since they are made of cotton would not dry quickly. For dress pants I had a pair of black pants I found in the golf-wear section at JC Penney’s. They look nice and are made for sporting activities. The thin synthetic material packed tightly. I carried a nice pull-over sweater that could look a bit dressy with a collared shirt, but also provided a layer of warmth when I needed it. Most of my other clothes were from REI. I love that place.

Of course shoes are extremely important. They also take up a lot of suitcase room. For walking shoes I have a nice pair of leather Timberlines. I packed a pair of dress shoes. There are some occasions where a sharper image is appropriate. I was also able to pack a pair of flip flops. They were not absolutely necessary, but I had some room so I threw them in.

One item we are unwilling to sacrifice is our camera. It certainly would be easier to use a pocket size camera, but our Cannon Rebel with the 28mm-300mm lens takes great pictures. We pack the whole thing. It fit in my suitcase along with my laptop. I was able to travel compactly and it was never obvious that I had expensive electronics with me.

The one luxury item I bring is a pair of noise canceling headphones. They cover my ears so they are fairly bulky. I use them for listening to music and watching movies either on the plane or elsewhere. I could get by without them but they make the sound clear and hearing effortless.

The most worthwhile item is the iPhone. It takes up practically no space and provides the traveler with a fantastic global resource.

  • Phone calls
  • Text messages
  • Movies
  • Music
  • Weather forecasts
  • Email
  • Pictures, immediately email them to friends/family
  • Google Maps
  • Podcasts/Language lessons/Audio tours

There is one item I wish I had. That would be a pair of comfortable thin fleece pants for lounging in the hotel room. I have been unable to find such a thing. They need to roll up tight.

Language

English was widely spoken in the areas we visited and you could get away without knowing Italian. However, it was very helpful to have learned a lot of Italian. We were able to pronounce the words and understand the writing. Our attempts to speak Italian were often appreciated.

Day-Tripping

Becky and I would just carry our small backpacks. I carried a sweater, rain jacket, camera, maps, guidebooks, snacks, water, hat, sunglasses, and sunblock. The backpacks are small and unassuming, but are more than adequate for carry everything you need for a day of sight-seeing.

Guidebooks

This is the second trip where we have used Rick Steves’ guidebooks. I am a big fan of the Rick Steves’ guidebooks. And not surprisingly, so are a lot of other people. Therein lies the problem. You may find that you are eating and sleeping with a bunch of other Americans and not experiencing the culture as is advocated by Rick Steves. I asked a couple of our hosts how much of their business comes directly from Rick Steves’ recommendations. They said 50%. Obviously Rick Steves has become quite successful. It is well deserved. But is he a victim of his own success?

The genius of the Rick Steves’ guidebooks lies in their ability to describe logistical details. No other guidebooks give you step by step instructions, such as showing you how to get from the airport terminal to your hotel room. On your own this can be a frustrating experience. But with Rick Steves it is easy, efficient, and cheap!

I think Rick Steves also gives you good sight-seeing priorities. He really does know where you want to be. So the trick may be to use the Rick Steves’ itineraries but find accommodations through other resources. I will be experimenting with this idea on our next trip.

Safety

I do not believe we ever felt unsafe at any time. We kept a low profile and maintained awareness of our surroundings. You always read that you should not look like a tourist. They tell you that having a camera hanging from your neck resting just above your beer belly while looking at a tourist map is inviting trouble. I think that is ridiculous advice. First of all, you are a tourist. Secondly, you drink beer. Look, the fact is you are typically in a tourist area. You need a map to figure out where to go and you record your adventure with a camera. End of story. You do need to know when to be discreet and when to be in full blown tourist mode. We are generally much more discreet while in transit and we try to be organized at all times. However, it should not prevent you from getting to a destination or preserving memories.

Thursday, December 11, 2008

Sept. 28, 2008 - Going Home

Sunday, September 28, 2008

Going home day. We got up at around 6:00am. We need to walk out of the hotel by 7:00am for a 7:23am train. We left the hotel at about 6:50am, good! That gave me time for my last caffe doppio. We boarded the train and in 30 minutes we were at Gallarate, where according to the Rick Steves' book we should find a bus. No bus, so we took a cab. My Italian must have been improving for when I asked the cabbie how much to the airport he rattled off a bunch of fares in Italian. I had to ask him to repeat it and then he realized I was an English speaker and explained the fares in English.

We arrived at the terminal and loaded onto the plane. The plane took off a bit late. Well that did not affect things as it arrived early. But then we had to go through Immigration/Customs at JFK. This is why we like the nonstop flights to SFO. Otherwise it takes too much time and causes anxiety. You wonder if you will make your next flight. Note to self, non-stops can be worth the price.

Sept. 27, 2008 - Stresa

Saturday, September 27, 2008

Last day of our trip. It was not a warm day, but we were ready for our adventure. We had our first substantial breakfast on the trip. It was great and included with our room. Cheeses, smoked salmon, sausage, eggs, fruits, as well as other things. We bought a ticket at the boat dock to visit 3 islands with 2 palace/garden tours. They were very nice tours. The palaces were very grand affairs and the gardens were immaculate. And the length of the day was just right. We went back into town for our last Gelato and a Pharmacy stop. There were no Rick Steves' books in sight. There was just a smattering of Americans amongst mostly English and Italians. So this place did not have the Rick Steves' flavor at all. Our dinner finale was in the hotel. I wore my stylish Italian dress shirt with black slacks, so I was dressed for the occasion. It was a fine 4 course meal. We went to our room to watch some Italian TV and that was our day.

Impressions:

Stresa is a wonderful town for a stay. It is a charming town with a large piazza of restaurants and bars. There seemed to be a number of very decent restaurants. The lakeside view is wonderful and you can spend an afternoon taking in the view from a boat. Milano is nearby and the airport is even closer. We would definitely stay there again.

Isola Bella, an island palace with gardens. Our hotel from the passenger ferry Lago (Lake) Maggiore and the Alps in the background

Sept. 26, 2008 - Back to Italy

Friday, September 26, 2008

We were up early, about 6:15am to shower, pack, and have breakfast. We wanted to get to Bern at around 10:00am, so we needed to catch the train at 8:06am. We caught the train but missed our connection into Interlaken by about 1 minute. Well, that gave us time to get our Southbound Cisalpino ticket.

Turns out you do not need a seat reservation when boarding the train in Switzerland, not so in Italy. This turned out to be odd, since some people had a seat reservation and forced others, who did not have a reservation, to vacate their seat. Luckily, nobody kicked us out of our seats. It seemed like an awkward hybrid system. Anyway, we caught a northbound Cisalpino with about 1 minute to spare. I guess that made up for the train we missed. On the train I ordered a coffee from the cart that comes down the aisle. Then some man came up from behind, scolding me in German and dropped my tray down so it was fully extended. Not sure what that was all about, half a tray is not good enough for a small coffee? I just assumed it was another uptight Swiss.

We arrived in Bern and stored our luggage in the train station lockers. We started out on the Rick Steves’ tour of the town. It is a nice city, we just wished it was warmer. It was about 50 degrees with a stiff breeze. We had lunch at a nice pizza place. Great service for a change, with a lively atmosphere.

After touring Bern we boarded the southbound Cisalpino to Italy. We were headed for Stresa, the last stop on our trip. As soon as we got to our transfer stop in Italy we started to remove clothing. The warm air was a relief. And although Switzerland had great scenery, we were glad to be back in Italy. We arrived in Stresa and walked to our 5 star hotel. What a nice place. And a nice setting on a large lake in the Italian Alps, Lake Maggiore. We had a nice dinner, Becky and I shared a roasted Pork leg. Yes, Italy has better food than Switzerland.

Impressions:

We stayed at the Chalet Fontana while in Murren for 3 nights. It so happened that the apartment was empty, so Denise the owner had us stay in it. Although it was clean and the beds were great, I never felt completely comfortable. Mainly because the most comfortable chairs were sorn with a small burn mark or two on them. Becky sat in them and seemed happy, I just sat on the floor. However the price was right and Denise was a great host. It was the end of the season and she was still full of energy and sightseeing ideas. Next time I think we should go to Wengen, it is supposed to be a little more upscale and it is also closer to the Jungfrau train line. St. Moritz could also be explored but is in a different area.

Bern, Switzerland Bern Statue: The Ogre that eats children

Sept. 25, 2008 - Berner Oberland

Thursday, September 25, 2008

The fog was thick. You could barely see down the street at times. We decided we would try to go up Schilthorn if it cleared. In the meantime I went down to the bar in the Eiger Guesthouse near the train station. They had internet access and there were a few things I needed to do. It was a comfortable place.

We decided not to do the Jungfrau. It would have been an all-day event to get there and back as well as expensive. Becky’s leg was hurting from the hike the day before so we just took it easy. Schilthorn would be an easy trip.

The fog never lifted so we just walked around the town and relaxed. We grabbed sandwich fixins at the grocery store. The restaurants are so pricy and the food was mediocre that we decided to make our own dinner. It turned out to be a good idea. We bought bread that needed to finish baking in the apartment oven. So with fresh bread, salame, mustard, and cheese we had a great sandwich. Then fresh apples and we were set.

We went back to the bar for internet access, there was an English man who was tending bar. Becky talked to him while I worked on the computer in the pool room. There were two young girls smoking and drinking beer. They were playing pool and singing along with American songs they had selected from the juke box. Such great hits as "Greased Lighting" from the musical Grease?

We went back to the room to pack for the next day. We then took the rest of our Italian wine upstairs to share with the other Americans staying in the B&B. We had a nice visit and turned in for the night.

Sept. 24, 2008 - Berner Oberland

Wednesday, September 24, 2008

Let me first describe the Berner Oberland. It is very dramatic scenery. Interlaken sits at the base of this region. From Interlaken you enter a valley with high canyon walls. One side of the canyon goes all the way up to the Jungfrau at 13,642 feet. The other side of the canyon peaks out at around 10,000 feet on Schilthorn. Murren, where we stayed, actually sits on a canyon ledge at an elevation of about 5,381 feet. You cannot drive to Murren, so it is basically a pleasant pedestrian resort town.

On this day I was up and out of bed just before 8:00am. I showered and Becky slept. While Becky was getting ready for the day I took a few pictures around the town. It was a bright clear morning. The mountains were just amazing. We had breakfast and coffee, talked to Denise and another couple from Seattle. Denise, originally from England, is exceptionally helpful and wants to make sure you enjoy your time in the area. We were not too energetic and both of us wanted to get an extra warm layer. Becky also needed shoes for hiking. So we took our time finding some gear, we ended up paying about $500, WOW. Oh well, we needed the clothes and they were going to be great souvenirs.

We then set out for the day. We rode the Funicular (a train pulled by cable up a steep mountain side) and had lunch at the top. From there we went on a wonderful hike. We stopped for Beer on the trail, yes restaurants on the alpine trails serving beer! We continued on, the views were spectacular. The path eventually led us under a waterfall. We hiked almost to Rick Steves' famous Gimmelwald. This is Rick Steves' top choice for a home base in the Alps. It looked like a nice cow town, but we chose less rustic accommodations. We did not go all the way down into town as we were hoping the road we found would allow us to stay high as we walked back to Murren. We would then avoid hiking down and then up to Murren. Well it didn’t work out and by the time we walked into Murren we had done more than our share of walking.

For dinner we ate at Hotel Blumenthal. We had a nice fondue dinner with a lot of condiments. The meal was interesting but the ingredients were mediocre. Now about Swiss hospitality, not really sure it exists. They don’t seem interested in serving dessert and coffee after dinner even if it is on the menu. The Italian waiter was attentive, but then he disappeared and so did our service.

The fog in the evening was really thick and cold. Not sure about the tempature, but I will guess upper 30’s.

Impressions:

What a beautiful landscape. And hiking with beer stops! It really is dramatic country and easy to get around. Expensive, but easy. It is also very clean. You’d think they powerwash the train stations every night. Not be taken as truth but our first impression is that many of the Swiss we run into seem to be impersonable . Not easy-going like the Italians, of course America is made up of a lot more Italians than Swiss so maybe we are just more compatible.

Rosti (hash browns) with ham and cheese The cliff hugging town of Murren Cows all over the place with their clanging bells Three men on their hike Becky on a bench just above Gimmelwald, overlooking the valley canyon