Italy/Switzerland Review

Italy/Switzerland – Final Thoughts

Obviously Becky and I enjoyed the trip. I was surprised how well everything came together. I admit to having done some extensive planning. But you expect to miss a train or arrive at a hotel only to have your reservation misplaced. None of that happened. Becky did start out with an expired passport. But that was quickly remedied and had very little impact on our trip.

Here is an evaluation:

Itinerary

I would probably change two things. In the Berner Oberland I would stay in Wengen instead of Murren. If you stay in Wengen it is much closer to the Jungfrau “Top of Europe” attraction. The couple we met from North Carolina have been going to Switzerland for years. They said they enjoy Wengen. The other change would be to get a car and tour Tuscany instead of camping out in Siena. Siena was nice but did not give us the Tuscan experience we were looking for.

The day we spent traveling from the Italian Riviera to the Alps was long, but still relaxing. It was worth it to experience the varied destinations of Italy and Switzerland. Next time we will probably fly into one city and out another, you can cover more ground that way and the airfare does not seem to be that much more. Given we were visiting in late September I would also say that it may have been wiser to do the northern end (colder) first and then make our way south.

Hotels

Here I would would probably substitute a Tuscan villa for the Siena hotel. Other than that the rest of the accommodations worked out A-OK.

Transportation

Using train travel was a great move. They are generally frequent and efficient. The train stations are usually in central locations that avoid taxi fares or extra bus rides. Storing your luggage at the train station and then visiting a town or sight for a short time, really makes for efficient use of time. The German Train website, http://reiseauskunft.bahn.de/bin/query.exe/en, is invaluable for planning itineraries by rail.

Budget

The budget held together pretty well. We were well aware of what things would cost. We also knew that the dollar was really sucking. Switzerland was very expensive, more than we expected. Transportation and dining in that country can really hit the ceiling. I spent more on wine than I had planned, I don’t think it’s a crime.

Packing

I was amazed at what I could pack in my little carry-on suitcase. It has a separate section for my laptop. This is very convenient. I did not have to struggle with a separate laptop case and nobody really knows you have a laptop. We were able to cram everything we needed into those carry-ons. Guidebooks and reading books can be bulky and heavy. I am wondering if I could use the new Kindle from Amazon to take electronic books. It could save space and weight.

We did not have enough warm clothing for Switzerland. By traveling light it is hard to be prepared for all unexpected events. And in this case the problem was easily remedied by purchasing what we needed.

We packed only quick drying synthetic materials. For instance we did not bring denim jeans. They would be too bulky and since they are made of cotton would not dry quickly. For dress pants I had a pair of black pants I found in the golf-wear section at JC Penney’s. They look nice and are made for sporting activities. The thin synthetic material packed tightly. I carried a nice pull-over sweater that could look a bit dressy with a collared shirt, but also provided a layer of warmth when I needed it. Most of my other clothes were from REI. I love that place.

Of course shoes are extremely important. They also take up a lot of suitcase room. For walking shoes I have a nice pair of leather Timberlines. I packed a pair of dress shoes. There are some occasions where a sharper image is appropriate. I was also able to pack a pair of flip flops. They were not absolutely necessary, but I had some room so I threw them in.

One item we are unwilling to sacrifice is our camera. It certainly would be easier to use a pocket size camera, but our Cannon Rebel with the 28mm-300mm lens takes great pictures. We pack the whole thing. It fit in my suitcase along with my laptop. I was able to travel compactly and it was never obvious that I had expensive electronics with me.

The one luxury item I bring is a pair of noise canceling headphones. They cover my ears so they are fairly bulky. I use them for listening to music and watching movies either on the plane or elsewhere. I could get by without them but they make the sound clear and hearing effortless.

The most worthwhile item is the iPhone. It takes up practically no space and provides the traveler with a fantastic global resource.

• Phone calls
• Text messages
• Movies
• Music
• Weather forecasts
• Email
• Pictures, immediately email them to friends/family
• Google Maps
• Podcasts/Language lessons/Audio tours

There is one item I wish I had. That would be a pair of comfortable thin fleece pants for lounging in the hotel room. I have been unable to find such a thing. They need to roll up tight.

Language

English was widely spoken in the areas we visited and you could get away without knowing Italian. However, it was very helpful to have learned a lot of Italian. We were able to pronounce the words and understand the writing. Our attempts to speak Italian were often appreciated.

Day-Tripping

Becky and I would just carry our small backpacks. I carried a sweater, rain jacket, camera, maps, guidebooks, snacks, water, hat, sunglasses, and sunblock. The backpacks are small and unassuming, but are more than adequate for carry everything you need for a day of sight-seeing.

Guidebooks

This is the second trip where we have used Rick Steves’ guidebooks. I am a big fan of the Rick Steves’ guidebooks. And not surprisingly, so are a lot of other people. Therein lies the problem. You may find that you are eating and sleeping with a bunch of other Americans and not experiencing the culture as is advocated by Rick Steves. I asked a couple of our hosts how much of their business comes directly from Rick Steves’ recommendations. They said 50%. Obviously Rick Steves has become quite successful. It is well deserved. But is he a victim of his own success?

The genius of the Rick Steves’ guidebooks lies in their ability to describe logistical details. No other guidebooks give you step by step instructions, such as showing you how to get from the airport terminal to your hotel room. On your own this can be a frustrating experience. But with Rick Steves it is easy, efficient, and cheap!

I think Rick Steves also gives you good sight-seeing priorities. He really does know where you want to be. So the trick may be to use the Rick Steves’ itineraries but find accommodations through other resources. I will be experimenting with this idea on our next trip.

Safety

I do not believe we ever felt unsafe at any time. We kept a low profile and maintained awareness of our surroundings. You always read that you should not look like a tourist. They tell you that having a camera hanging from your neck resting just above your beer belly while looking at a tourist map is inviting trouble. I think that is ridiculous advice. First of all, you are a tourist. Secondly, you drink beer. Look, the fact is you are typically in a tourist area. You need a map to figure out where to go and you record your adventure with a camera. End of story. You do need to know when to be discreet and when to be in full blown tourist mode. We are generally much more discreet while in transit and we try to be organized at all times. However, it should not prevent you from getting to a destination or preserving memories.

Sept. 28, 2008 - Going Home

Sunday, September 28, 2008

Going home day. We got up at around 6:00am. We need to walk out of the hotel by 7:00am for a 7:23am train. We left the hotel at about 6:50am, good! That gave me time for my last caffe doppio. We boarded the train and in 30 minutes we were at Gallarate, where according to the Rick Steves' book we should find a bus. No bus, so we took a cab. My Italian must have been improving for when I asked the cabbie how much to the airport he rattled off a bunch of fares in Italian. I had to ask him to repeat it and then he realized I was an English speaker and explained the fares in English.

We arrived at the terminal and loaded onto the plane. The plane took off a bit late. Well that did not affect things as it arrived early. But then we had to go through Immigration/Customs at JFK. This is why we like the nonstop flights to SFO. Otherwise it takes too much time and causes anxiety. You wonder if you will make your next flight. Note to self, non-stops can be worth the price.

Sept. 27, 2008 - Stresa

Saturday, September 27, 2008

Last day of our trip. It was not a warm day, but we were ready for our adventure. We had our first substantial breakfast on the trip. It was great and included with our room. Cheeses, smoked salmon, sausage, eggs, fruits, as well as other things. We bought a ticket at the boat dock to visit 3 islands with 2 palace/garden tours. They were very nice tours. The palaces were very grand affairs and the gardens were immaculate. And the length of the day was just right. We went back into town for our last Gelato and a Pharmacy stop. There were no Rick Steves' books in sight. There was just a smattering of Americans amongst mostly English and Italians. So this place did not have the Rick Steves' flavor at all. Our dinner finale was in the hotel. I wore my stylish Italian dress shirt with black slacks, so I was dressed for the occasion. It was a fine 4 course meal. We went to our room to watch some Italian TV and that was our day.

Impressions:

Stresa is a wonderful town for a stay. It is a charming town with a large piazza of restaurants and bars. There seemed to be a number of very decent restaurants. The lakeside view is wonderful and you can spend an afternoon taking in the view from a boat. Milano is nearby and the airport is even closer. We would definitely stay there again.

Isola Bella, an island palace with gardens. Our hotel from the passenger ferry Lago (Lake) Maggiore and the Alps in the background

Sept. 26, 2008 - Back to Italy

Friday, September 26, 2008

We were up early, about 6:15am to shower, pack, and have breakfast. We wanted to get to Bern at around 10:00am, so we needed to catch the train at 8:06am. We caught the train but missed our connection into Interlaken by about 1 minute. Well, that gave us time to get our Southbound Cisalpino ticket.

Turns out you do not need a seat reservation when boarding the train in Switzerland, not so in Italy. This turned out to be odd, since some people had a seat reservation and forced others, who did not have a reservation, to vacate their seat. Luckily, nobody kicked us out of our seats. It seemed like an awkward hybrid system. Anyway, we caught a northbound Cisalpino with about 1 minute to spare. I guess that made up for the train we missed. On the train I ordered a coffee from the cart that comes down the aisle. Then some man came up from behind, scolding me in German and dropped my tray down so it was fully extended. Not sure what that was all about, half a tray is not good enough for a small coffee? I just assumed it was another uptight Swiss.

We arrived in Bern and stored our luggage in the train station lockers. We started out on the Rick Steves’ tour of the town. It is a nice city, we just wished it was warmer. It was about 50 degrees with a stiff breeze. We had lunch at a nice pizza place. Great service for a change, with a lively atmosphere.

After touring Bern we boarded the southbound Cisalpino to Italy. We were headed for Stresa, the last stop on our trip. As soon as we got to our transfer stop in Italy we started to remove clothing. The warm air was a relief. And although Switzerland had great scenery, we were glad to be back in Italy. We arrived in Stresa and walked to our 5 star hotel. What a nice place. And a nice setting on a large lake in the Italian Alps, Lake Maggiore. We had a nice dinner, Becky and I shared a roasted Pork leg. Yes, Italy has better food than Switzerland.

Impressions:

We stayed at the Chalet Fontana while in Murren for 3 nights. It so happened that the apartment was empty, so Denise the owner had us stay in it. Although it was clean and the beds were great, I never felt completely comfortable. Mainly because the most comfortable chairs were sorn with a small burn mark or two on them. Becky sat in them and seemed happy, I just sat on the floor. However the price was right and Denise was a great host. It was the end of the season and she was still full of energy and sightseeing ideas. Next time I think we should go to Wengen, it is supposed to be a little more upscale and it is also closer to the Jungfrau train line. St. Moritz could also be explored but is in a different area.

Bern, Switzerland Bern Statue: The Ogre that eats children

Sept. 25, 2008 - Berner Oberland

Thursday, September 25, 2008

The fog was thick. You could barely see down the street at times. We decided we would try to go up Schilthorn if it cleared. In the meantime I went down to the bar in the Eiger Guesthouse near the train station. They had internet access and there were a few things I needed to do. It was a comfortable place.

We decided not to do the Jungfrau. It would have been an all-day event to get there and back as well as expensive. Becky’s leg was hurting from the hike the day before so we just took it easy. Schilthorn would be an easy trip.

The fog never lifted so we just walked around the town and relaxed. We grabbed sandwich fixins at the grocery store. The restaurants are so pricy and the food was mediocre that we decided to make our own dinner. It turned out to be a good idea. We bought bread that needed to finish baking in the apartment oven. So with fresh bread, salame, mustard, and cheese we had a great sandwich. Then fresh apples and we were set.

We went back to the bar for internet access, there was an English man who was tending bar. Becky talked to him while I worked on the computer in the pool room. There were two young girls smoking and drinking beer. They were playing pool and singing along with American songs they had selected from the juke box. Such great hits as "Greased Lighting" from the musical Grease?

We went back to the room to pack for the next day. We then took the rest of our Italian wine upstairs to share with the other Americans staying in the B&B. We had a nice visit and turned in for the night.

Sept. 24, 2008 - Berner Oberland

Wednesday, September 24, 2008

Let me first describe the Berner Oberland. It is very dramatic scenery. Interlaken sits at the base of this region. From Interlaken you enter a valley with high canyon walls. One side of the canyon goes all the way up to the Jungfrau at 13,642 feet. The other side of the canyon peaks out at around 10,000 feet on Schilthorn. Murren, where we stayed, actually sits on a canyon ledge at an elevation of about 5,381 feet. You cannot drive to Murren, so it is basically a pleasant pedestrian resort town.

On this day I was up and out of bed just before 8:00am. I showered and Becky slept. While Becky was getting ready for the day I took a few pictures around the town. It was a bright clear morning. The mountains were just amazing. We had breakfast and coffee, talked to Denise and another couple from Seattle. Denise, originally from England, is exceptionally helpful and wants to make sure you enjoy your time in the area. We were not too energetic and both of us wanted to get an extra warm layer. Becky also needed shoes for hiking. So we took our time finding some gear, we ended up paying about $500, WOW. Oh well, we needed the clothes and they were going to be great souvenirs.

We then set out for the day. We rode the Funicular (a train pulled by cable up a steep mountain side) and had lunch at the top. From there we went on a wonderful hike. We stopped for Beer on the trail, yes restaurants on the alpine trails serving beer! We continued on, the views were spectacular. The path eventually led us under a waterfall. We hiked almost to Rick Steves' famous Gimmelwald. This is Rick Steves' top choice for a home base in the Alps. It looked like a nice cow town, but we chose less rustic accommodations. We did not go all the way down into town as we were hoping the road we found would allow us to stay high as we walked back to Murren. We would then avoid hiking down and then up to Murren. Well it didn’t work out and by the time we walked into Murren we had done more than our share of walking.

For dinner we ate at Hotel Blumenthal. We had a nice fondue dinner with a lot of condiments. The meal was interesting but the ingredients were mediocre. Now about Swiss hospitality, not really sure it exists. They don’t seem interested in serving dessert and coffee after dinner even if it is on the menu. The Italian waiter was attentive, but then he disappeared and so did our service.

The fog in the evening was really thick and cold. Not sure about the tempature, but I will guess upper 30’s.

Impressions:

What a beautiful landscape. And hiking with beer stops! It really is dramatic country and easy to get around. Expensive, but easy. It is also very clean. You’d think they powerwash the train stations every night. Not be taken as truth but our first impression is that many of the Swiss we run into seem to be impersonable . Not easy-going like the Italians, of course America is made up of a lot more Italians than Swiss so maybe we are just more compatible.

Rosti (hash browns) with ham and cheese The cliff hugging town of Murren Cows all over the place with their clanging bells Three men on their hike Becky on a bench just above Gimmelwald, overlooking the valley canyon

Sept. 23, 2008 - Travel to Switzerland

Tuesday, September 23, 2008

Travel to Switzerland. We had to catch a 7:31am train from Vernazza to ensure we were able to catch all the fast trains to Switzerland. We knew it was going to be a long travel day. If we missed any of our planned connections, it was going to be much longer. Here is how we got to Murren, Switzerland.

First leg – Vernazza to Stresi Lavante (30 minutes). Although we could have stayed on the train all the way to Genova Piazza Principe, it would have been a few minutes late for our connection to Milano. So we hopped off at Stresi Lavante to catch an express train to Genova. The train from Vernazza was running late and made us sweat a little.

Second leg - Stresi Lavante to Genova Piazza Principe (35 minutes). We caught the Express train to Genova and did not have to rush. In Genova we caught the Milano train for which we had reservations.

Third leg - Genova Piazza Principe to Milano Centrale (2 hours). This train was packed, but we had our seat reservations so not to worry. The Milano Centrale station is a large station. Upon arrival in Milano we had to find the right train, there were more than one Cisalpino and they changed the track for our train! We found the train 2 minutes before departure time. But we were in car number 9, we had to run all the way down the track to car number 9. We jumped on and no sooner had we sat down and the train was off.

Fourth leg – Milano Centrale to Spiez (2.5 hours). This is the speedy Cisalpino train. A very scenic ride through the Alps, where halfway through they switch to Swiss train operators. Armed Customs/Immigration officers came through and randomly check passports. We arrived in Spiez, the station was spotless. Just as you would expect in Switzerland. There were not many people at the station and it was cold. We got some Swiss Francs from the ATM and bought our tickets to Interlaken.

Fifth leg – Spiez to Interlaken Ost (20 minutes). In Interlaken we had lunch nearby, everything was in German, it was a bit of a shock not to know any of the language or custom. We should had studied some German prior to the trip, Oh well. We left our lunch trays on the table expecting the attendant to bus the table, not quite right. We were then scolded by the attendant to put them away ourselves. Funny thing was that we had seen others leave their trays on the table and it was not obvious where the trays should be placed. Welcome to Switzerland. I guess that is why Switzerland is so clean. Next we got our ticket to Murren which is run by a private rail company. Still 3 more legs to Murren.

Sixth leg – Interlaken Ost to Lauterbrunnen (20 minutes). Nice train and a sparse crowd.

Seventh leg – Lauterbrunnen to Grutschalp (10 minutes). This was a cable car (the car was hung from overhead cables) ride up the side of the steep mountain. On the car we met a couple from North Carolina who befriended us and helped us find our room and a place for dinner.

Eighth leg – Grutschalp to Murren (20 minutes). Wow! We finally made it just as it was planned. The mountains there are just magnificent. It was cold upon our arrival, in the 40’s I think. The morning would be interesting.

We got to our place for the night. Denise the owner, gave us the apartment instead of a room. Bonus! This gave us our own bathroom, we had been expecting to use a shared bathroom. TripAdvisor said the apartment is creaky so I was little concerned. Turned out it was creaky, but the noise never bothered us. We slept fine. We did laundry at the Hotel Bellevue. We went for dinner and they charged me in dollars. Bob (1/2 of the North Carolina couple) told me that he usually only tips 3-5 Euro since the meal price already includes it. But since they tried to pull the currency conversion trick on me, I stiffed them. I really don’t like that practice.

I finally caught up on journaling and went to bed.

Impressions

It was actually refreshing to be in Switzerland. Something new and so clean, we didn’t realize that Italy was dirty, some places at home are as dirty as Italy so I guess we are used to it. First impression of Switzerland was that it is advanced and rich. Everything seems well-built, efficient, and of course clean. We now realize the downside to using Rick Steves. Too many Americans. At dinner the non-smoking room seemed to create a divide between the non-smoking Americans and other nationalities with a propensity to smoke. I think there were only Americans in our dining area, nice people and fun to talk with, but do I need to go to Switzerland to have dinner with a bunch of Americans? It seems insular and not congruent with the Rick Steves' philosophy.

Train Station at Lauterbrunnen, Switzerland One of the bedrooms at Chalet Fontana

Sept. 22, 2008 - Cinque Terre

Monday, September 22, 2008

Cinque Terre Day. We woke up at about 8:00am, with breakfast at about 9:30am. There seemed to be a lot less tourists on this morning and there was work to be done by the locals. They were bringing in seafood and produce, hauling demolished masonry and other such activity. It looked like it was going to be a nice day as it was mostly clear, but still a nip in the air. We had to check out of our room at La Mala and move into another room. They could not book us for all 3 nights in La Mala so they offered us another room for one night. Only 70 Euro. The room was a bit more rustic and without a view, but quite adequate.

After checking out we headed to the train station and caught the next train to Riomaggiore. We strolled around and had lunch at a pizza place that was in Rick Steve’s book. The guy running the place wanted to see our guidebook and took it in the back to read to others. We stopped in a wine shop and bought 6 bottles of wine to be shipped. Three Cinque Terre wines, a Chianti, a Brunello, and a Super-Tuscan. So instead of carrying wine home, we decided to drink the rest of what we bought in Tuscany and have these six bottles shipped. That way we avoided checking our luggage. Interestingly, the shop keeper told us there would be no problem shipping the product. That is not what we were told in Tuscany and I thought wine had to be shipped via an exporter unless you actually carried the wine through customs yourself. Well after we were back at home the wine arrived via Fed Ex just as we ordered. However, the packing slip and invoice said 6 bottles of Olive Oil! I believe the Corleone family of the Godfather movies was also in the Olive Oil business.

We then walked from Riomaggiore to Manorola on a path called the Della Amore. Manorola is another nice town, that is less touristy. It has a trail through the nearby vineyards that eventually intersects the main trail. The main trail would lead us to our next destination, the town of Cornglia. As we started on the trail it started to sprinkle rain.

Cornglia is up on a hill not down on the water like the others. So by the time we got to the base of the hill, it was pouring rain. We ducked in for some shelter with somes Canadians. It was a bit uncomfortable in the makeshift shelter, we were still getting wet and the shelter was too short for me, forcing me to crouch down. So we made a break for it up the 10 to 15 switchbacks. By the time we got to the top we were soaked. We found the all important Gelateria (Gelato shop) and took shelter. Well that was the end of the hike. We caught the bus to the train station and headed back to Vernazza.

We had a nice dinner, Anchovy casserole for me and swordfish for Becky. I then caught up with things at an Internet cafe. We went to bed relatively early as we had to leave for Switzerland the next morning.

Impressions

Vernazza is much better on a weekday, can’t say if that is always the case but it was our observation. La Mala was very comfortable. The hike is probably one of the best things about the Cinque Terre, as you explore 5 very similar towns on foot. I could have probably stayed another day. Yes the rain was a nuisance, but you can't order weather.

Becky and I on the Della Amore path On the vineyard trail Manorola Just a little sprinkle at this point Our home base in the Cinque Terre, Vernazza

Sept. 21, 2008 - Cinque Terre

Sunday, September 21, 2008

First Day in Vernazza. What a charming and relaxing feel this town has. We slept in until 9:00am. There was nothing really planned for the day, after all it was a day on the Italian Riviera. I washed shirts and pants for about 30-60 minutes. We had a leisurely morning, went down for our breakfast at the bar, explored the town and then went back to the hotel before heading to Monterossa. The Room service lady who happened to be Giamba’s mother (Giamba runs the accomodation) had organized my wash on the clotheslines to dry. What pleasant surprise. We took a boat to Monterossa. We thought we were going to miss the early boat, but fortunately the boat was late so we did not have to wait long. It was a short ride to Monterossa. We had a pizza lunch with beer for only 5.30 Euro a piece (Rick Steves' recommendation).

We were doing the Rick Steve’s tour when it started to rain. I lent Becky my rain jacket, as she did not have one! It was a beach town so I was in swimming trunks, my green North Face shirt and flip flops. Great, I was wearing the only items I had that were clean and dry. The rain did put a damper on things. Mainly because all the places with covering were crowded, especially the train station. The train station was extremely crowded on the return trip. There was almost not enough room on the train for everyone. People were a bit pushy. We could barely get off. I speculate that it was because it was raining on a Sunday afternoon and everyone wanted to leave. It was quite an ordeal.

We got back to Vernazza and there was our laundry outside on the clothesline getting rained on. It wasn’t too bad except for Becky’s PJ’s. We had wine, I journaled and we went to dinner at Taverna del Capitano. It was a fine meal and after our 10% discount it came to 80 Euro.

Impressions

Vernazza is very relaxing. Tour groups are still a pain and put a damper on the atmosphere. Our room was great and so were the people who work there. I was so glad we had one more full day in Vernazza.

Bringing in the grape harvest, Vernazza On the boat to Monterossa Monterossa One of our dinner/breakfast spots in Vernazza

Sept. 20, 2008 - Florence/Pisa/Vernazza

Saturday, September 20, 2008

Leaving Florence. Got out of bed at around 8:00am. Left the hotel shortly after and headed down to the Mercado. Interesting place with vendor stands selling meats, cheeses and such inside. We had our caffe/tea and pastry inside, bought some cheese and fruit and headed for the train station.

We caught a 10:30 train to Pisa. We put our luggage in Baggage Storage and walked to the Leaning Tower of Pisa through a nice pedestrian only shopping street. The weather was very nice, 73 degrees and sunny. We climbed up to the top of the leaning tower. At the top you are on a narrow ledge, with open railing on both sides of the walkway. The ledge forms a circle that you walk around to take in the view. No gravity expiriments are allowed. If heights bother you, you might think twice about being up there. It was a great visit and you can really feel the lean walking up the circular staircase to the top.

On the way back we stopped for Gelato. Then a second stop for caffe/tea and dessert. Becky bought a blouse.

We hopped back on the Train and headed for Vernazza, changing trains in La Spezia. In Vernazza we waited on the piazza and the room manager, Giamba, took us to our room. We enjoyed some wine on the terrace. We explored the village some and then had a nice dinner at Gambero Rosso. It was a very nice place, the tab was about 100 Euro.

Impressions

Our hotel in Florence was quite adequate. The staff was very helpful. One staff member went out of her way to find the answer to a question I had about train tickets to Vernazza. Did we need 1 ticket or 2 to Vernazza if we wanted to get off the train in Pisa which was on the way. It turned out that we needed 2. The hotel was tucked away on a narrow street with some noise. Becky liked the bed. I would have liked more covering than just a bed spread. However, at 90 Euro it was a bargain. Don’t forget the great WiFi. In some places the Internet access does not allow for a VPN connection, which I need. At this hotel the connection was wide open, and free of charge.

Pisa. What a nice city! And not very crowded. It is a university town so there are a lot of nice looking young people and plenty of cafes and Ristoranti. The town can be explored quickly like Rick Steves recommends, but I wonder if it wouldn’t make for a relaxing one night stay. The tower and Field of Miracles is really Postcard perfect. It is great to say you have been to the top of the Leaning Tower of Pisa.

Pisa along the Arno River Thank goodness that fine young man is holding up the tower The "Field of Miracles" from atop the Leaning Tower The top of the Leaning Tower Professional Photographer

Sept. 19, 2008 - Florence

Friday, September 19

Leaving Siena. Got out of bed at 4:00am! We had to catch a 4:30am cab for a 5:00am train. The doorman made me a quick espresso and we were off.

We arrived in Florence a little after 6:30am. We went to the train station bar. I had a caffe. Becky had tea. We both order a pastry. We kind of lingered at the train station for awhile as we got our bearings. Then we found our hotel and left our luggage. I started to worry that we had lingered too long, for our appointment was at 8:15am at the Uffizzi and we were supposed to be there 10 minutes early.

We rushed and we arrived right on time, but they did not open the cashiers until probably 8:25am. Anyway we did the Rick Steves’ audioguide. Becky and I shared. I liked the audioguide, it is quick and moves you through the highlights. Becky thinks they are corny. Actually they are, but I don’t mind. What is great about the Ufizzi Art Museum is that the exhibit is in chronological order, for each era it explains the importance of the art. There are some very famous pieces there. The famous Women in a Clamshell, actually a piece of soft porn for the time. You would recognize it if you saw it. It was the age of Realism!

We walked around trying to find lunch. A place recommended by Rick Steves did not seem to be open so we went to find another place back across the Ponte Vecchio, the famous bridge in Florence. The place was mobbed by tour groups. There was a Princess Cruise tour with many Americans who seemed to be rather out of touch with their surroundings. In particular I remember one American lady asking for a double cappuccino like she was at Starbucks. The cashier could simply not comprehend what she wanted. I don't think the lady was happy with the result. Generally Becky and I do not attempt to Americanize what we get. We find something close to what we like and learn to appreciate it.

After lunch we took the Renaissance walk on audio tour. It was great, except for the pouring down rain. However, the rain did not seem to reduce the number of tour groups or the massive crowds with umbrellas. The rain did not dampen our spirits, but the tour groups can take a toll.

We finally went back to the hotel. Becky took a very short nap and I did some work. Then it was off to the Accedemia Museum. We listened to another audio tour, saw Michelangelo's “The David” and went back to the hotel. We dressed for dinner and stopped at an Osteria, which is a Italian dinner cafe. What a lively place! The guy who runs the place was all over, quipping with customers who obviously enjoyed him. I had tomato creamed ravioli and sausage. We had a hard time getting dessert (they were too busy) so we left and went for Gelato. We walked around this lively but dirty city. There were lots of people out on the streets, especially at this particular bar near the Mercado. The music was just blasting. Finally the lengthy day was over and we crashed.

Impressions

Florence is a bit intense. The combination of crowds on rainy narrow streets and the filth was a bit much. It was not a cozy atmosphere. But certainly you want to see Florence for its historical importance. There were more things we could do, such as go to the top of the Duomo or the tower. But frankly we were burned-out on the Duomo/museum thing by then.

Replica of "The David" outside City Hall "The Rape of the Sabines" near the Palazzo Vecchio Duomo in Florence

Sept. 18, 2008 - Chianti (Tuscany)

Thursday, September 18, 2008

Second Day Siena. We needed to meet Roberto Bechi at 9:00am for our tour of Chianti. “Tours with Roberto” is a tour recommended by Rick Steves. In fact Roberto has been on 3 of his episodes (we have seen one of them). It was a great overview for someone who has limited time in the region. And since we chose not to have a car, it seemed like a good way to get around the hill towns of Tuscany. Roberto first took us to an Etruscan archeological site. The Etuscans were the Italian civilization that preceeded the Romans. We then had a scenic drive, a walk through a small castle village, lunch, and finally a tour of a small winery tour called Isodi vineyards. A small family vineyard. The wine was good, we bought 3 bottles. It was a nice tour, Roberto is quite a character. Not sure if he appreciated my questioning. I tend to engage the tour guides. Becky and I were the only ones on the tour, so it was effectively our own personal tour.

Roberto did make a comment about Becky and I. He said we were humble. I was a little surprised, he knew we were Americans so how could he say such a thing. I was glad to have heard that, we try to be good guests in other countries. He did complain about other Americans he had on previous tours, especially a lady from the south who would say "eee-talians" for Italians.

That evening Roberto suggested a restaurant in Siena called Guidoriccio. It was excellent. Given Roberto’s relationship with Rick Steves I was surprised it is not in the guidebooks. Maybe it is above the Rick Steves price range. I had raw marinated pork, thinly sliced over a cheese and surrounded by radicchio. It was great and Becky had strips of steak. One of the owners even took time to help me with my Italian.

We then went to bed so that we could catch our cab at 4:30am to make sure we got to our Uffizzi Museum appointment in Florence at 8:15am.

Impressions

I appreciated Roberto’s tour. But he does come off a bit arrogant and less than open-minded. He contradicted the information we had heard at the museum, so I called him on it. Sorry about that. He didn’t really like my contrasting Italians with the French. I really wasn’t trying to make a judgment, I am just more familiar with the French and was doing a comparison for the sake of my own education. After all, that is what travel is about?

Siena is a nice city, but it was a bit larger than Becky and I were expecting. There are many tour groups there during the day. The evening was much quieter. Mostly English is spoken in the restaurants. Many Americans stay in the town, probably thanks to Rick Steves.

The Siena hotel, Piazzo Ravizza, was nice enough. It definitely had a rustic feel with a large room. Personally I never felt that comfortable except in the rear garden area with my cup of caffe. I slept well but Becky had some problems with the bed. Our view from the window had a more back alley feeling with some street noise and at 230 euro an evening it was a bit expensive.

Visions of Chianti Back Patio of our hotel

Sept. 17, 2008 - Siena

Wednesday, September 17, 2008

We took our breakfast and headed out for the Wednesday morning market. This was a bustling scene without the tourists. It was huge market with stall after stall, mostly clothing, but there was a section with food products. I bought some Italian shirts. You know the ones. Dark, striped, long sleeved dress shirts. It was our first real encounter with someone who did not speak English, and it worked out pretty well.

Then we went to the San Domenica church. The actual head of the church's saint (somehow preserved) was in an alter display case! It seems some of the pagan rituals remained at that time. Then we went to the Duomo Museum, no line for tickets. Rick Steves recommends getting the tickets at the museum and then you don’t have to wait in line to get into the Duomo itself. It worked out great as there was a large line to get tickets for the Duomo. The museum was just fine with a great view of the city up a narrow staircase to the observation area. We met and talked to a nice Hebrew Father and Son from Israel. He was interested to know if we knew any Jews. He seemed pleased when I told him our next door neighbor was Jewish. Next we went to the Duomo. The Duomo is rich in art and architecture and was well worth the time.

Before dinner we went to get our train reservations. Good idea to go to these small travel agencies (Rick Steve’s recommendation). They give quick friendly service. After that encounter we had our Genova-Milano and Milano-Spiez (the high speed Cisalpino route) seats reserved for our journey to Switzerland.

A note on the Italian trains. Some trains require an advanced reservation. The reservation gives you a seat assignment on a specific train. We never had a problem getting a reservation on our preferred trains. For the other trains where no reservation was required we just bought tickets at the station, either at the window or from the machine. Then just pick any train you choose. Prior to boarding the train you must validate your ticket by inserting your ticket into the yellow machine. It puts a timestamp on it. This prevents someone from using the same ticket repeatedly. Validation is not necessary for a reserved seat since it is only good for a particular train. Fortunately we did not find out what happens if you miss your reserved train.

We had dinner on the piazza. It was a nice setting, but a forgettable meal and inattentive wait staff. After all it is one of those high volume tourist activities.

Off to bed.

Impressions
Siena is a nice town. Lots of tourists, mainly Italian/Germans during the day, but then quiet at night. It seems there are mostly Americans at the restaurants in the evening. Where do the others go? Yes, you cross several time zones to have dinner with Americans. Oh well, they don’t seem to be as bad as the press makes them out to be.

At the Wednesday Market Roasted Pig Siena "Vespa" Street Siena

Sept. 16, 2008 - Venice/Siena

Tuesday, September 16, 2008

We were out of our room between 8:00am and 9:00am and had breakfast. We had a 10:43am Eurostar train to catch. But first we had to ride on the Vaporetto to the train station. It was a nice sunny morning without the crowds we had first encountered on the way from the Train station. We bought sandwiches to-go at the train station and then boarded the Eurostar to Florence. It was a very nice high speed train, with tables and power outlets for laptops. At Florence, we went to the Bus station and found the bus to Siena as suggested by Rick Steves. It was faster than the train and not half bad. We didn’t really know where to get off, but we figured it out.

We arrived in Siena and drug our luggage through town and found our hotel. The iPhone helped us out with Google Maps. We went to the bar across the street for a drink. It wasn’t the best atmosphere, almost in an alley setting, but it was good enough. We then went to dinner at a place we found near the piazza which was really good. They had no wine list because the waiter insists that he choose the proper wine for you. And what a fine wine it was. I forget what I ordered, but I remember it being very good and less than the Venice prices. The owner/waiter even thanked us for attempting to speak Italian.

The Grand Canal Commerce Shipping on the Grand Canal Our high ceiling room in Siena

Sept. 15, 2008 - Venice

Monday, September 15, 2008

Not sure what time we were out of the hotel but we had a full schedule after a nice breakfast. It went like this:

• Fenice – Opera Audio tour. A wonderful and famous opera house in Venice.
• Rialto Bridge - The famous bridge. We had pizza while we strolled with our lunch.
• Peggy Guggenheim Museum – Modern American art by eccentric people.
• St. Marks cathedral - Quick tour of this impressive cathedral before it closed for the day.
• Doge’s Palace – WOW, it must have been nice to have been in the ruling class of Vencie. So many elaborate rooms. We got there close to closing time. They were rushing us out of the place.

Dinner – At a crowded wine bar. We had another well-prepared meal. We sat next to a very pleasant French couple. They were gracious enough to share their wine with us and conversation. At first they thought we were English. We told them we were Americans and the women said that they were fasinated with America. I guess it does have an unusual place in history. People in foreign countries always seem to know more about America than Americans know about their country.

Impressions: We have heard some people say they don’t like Venice. Too crowded, dirty, and smelly. There were some crowds, but they were manageable. Other than that it is a really nice romantic city. Becky agreed. For an afternoon stroll there are not many cities that can compare. The hotel was wonderful, Hotel Flora. The breakfast was good and contained a nice variety. Next time in Venice we will put on the tie and the dress and see a performance at the Fenice

The Fenice Theater Our view from the top of the Rialto Bridge. Yep, there was a crowd in our way. Saint Mark's Square Our Venice hotel room

Sept. 14, 2008 - Milan/Venice

Sunday, September 14, 2008

We arrived in Milan in the morning, around 8:30am. Immigration was a breeze. It is always strange to arrive in a foreign country and then set off. It seems like you should sit down for awhile and prepare yourself for what is about to come. But that's silly. So we found the bus that Rick Steves says will take us to the Central train station. Sure enough we got on a bus and arrived at the train station. And sure enough, there was the travel agency he recommends for purchasing train tickets. We bought our tickets to Venice and the tickets from Venice to Florence.

On the bus I chatted with a women from China. She worked in a factory making washing machines, mostly for the US market through a company in Ohio. She said she was looking forward to visiting the US as the US government was about allow Chinese citizens to obtain tourist visas. I was surprised that our government did not allow tourists from China. We talked about the just completed Olympic games. I told her that the Chinese had done a good job hosting the Olympics. As with many Chinese she was full of national pride. What I did not tell her, out of politeness, was that I did not appreciate the Chinese government's lack of respect for individual liberties.

Next we dropped our bags off at baggage storage and headed for the subway. OK, we have really hit the ground running. We went to the Duomo where there is a large piazza. Almost every Italian city has a Duomo. It is the main church that usually has existed for 100's of years. We had lunch in the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele (a well known shopping mall), took a bunch of photos, hopped back on the subway, retrieved our luggage back, and jumped on the train for Venice.

We arrived in Venice in the afternoon. We figured out how to get on a slow water bus (Vaporetto) so we could do the Rick Steves’ audio tour. His book says take #82, but there was no #82, only a #1 and #2. We figured it out (#2) and we were on our way. The boat was crowded which made it difficult to see the sights. Becky and I tried to share the audio tour which was cumbersome. And then a lady wanted us to move over for a seat and we had our luggage in her way. It was rather awkard but we did OK and she even said “grazie” .

Finally we arrived at our stop. We headed for the hotel and a bit of a rest. We had just arrived in Italy that very day and look at what we had accomplished. We were doing good! We then went to a suggested restaurant. It was wonderful, but Becky and I did not know how to order. We had a great meal but we ordered the appetizer, primo plato, and secondo plato. Way too much food. Next time we will know to order a secondo plato and either the appetizer or primo plato. It was a very friendly atmospheric place with their display of fresh fish and live lobster. We headed back to the hotel. The accommodations at Hotel Flora were very relaxing and we were done with our first day.

The Duomo in Milan A Venice canal

Dinner is served

Sept. 13, 2008 - SFO

Saturday, September 13, 2008

We took off from SFO without incident!

Sept. 12, 2008 - SFO

Friday, September 12, 2008

This is the day we leave for Milan. How exciting.

Just one thing, while I was having trouble scanning my passport at the airport check-in counter at SFO, Becky noticed that her passport was expired.

“What do you mean by expired?”, I asked.

“What is going to happen?”, she asks in denial.

I tell her, “We can’t go.”. She appears to be having a nervous breakdown. I stop messing with my passport and use my iPhone to look for help. I give Becky the number for the Passport Agency in SF. She gets an appointment for 9:00am, we need 2 passport photos and they will review her situation.

Before leaving the airport we take a chance and we re-booked a flight for the next day and hoped everything would work out. We were lucky that there was an available flight. The attendant allowed us to pay a minimal change fee because of our situation.

We took BART downtown, got passport photos at Walgreens, and then went to the Passport Agency. There was a crisis at work anyway, so I went to Starbucks to work and Becky waited for her passport interview. I fixed my crisis and Becky was able to get a new passport. It would be ready at 3:00pm.

We got the passport, had a nice dinner in the city and would try again the next day.

Italy Accomodations

I probably have an odd view on accommodations. I like to stay in very comfortable places and sometimes that means paying higher prices. However, if I am going to pay a pretty penny, I want to make sure we have time to enjoy it. If on the other hand you are only using a bed and a shower between a couple of busy days sight-seeing then just opt for a cheap place. In other words, I am just not very interested in the middle of the road accommodation. This way I can subsidize a nice place with a cheap place.

In deciding on accommodations, I used the Rick Steves’ guidebooks. Rick Steves is good at finding lower-end value accommodations. He does list some nicer places as well. The locations are generally outstanding. That is, central to sight-seeing/restaurants so you save valuable time. So depending on how long we are staying at a place and how much time we will actually be spending at the accommodation will determine the quality of the accommodation we choose.

Here are the places we booked:

Milan - Hotel Star (175 Euro per night)

Centrally located hotel in Milan. Looked like a comfortable place for dispensing of jetlag. But we never made it there. More on that in another post.

Venice – Hotel Flora (240 Euro per night)

A very comfortable hotel in Venice close to St. Mark’s Square. Good beds, friendly staff, and good breakfasts.

Siena – Palazzo Ravizza (230 Euro per night)

This was an OK hotel. This was listed in Karen Brown’s book as well. I am not sure why, but I never felt completely comfortable here. I chose this since we were spending 3 nights in Siena and I expected we would spend a fair amount of time relaxing in the room between activities.

Florence – Hotel Enza (90 Euro per night)

Bargain time. I had scheduled busy days while in Florence, since we would be spending so little time at the hotel we opted for the cheap joint. It turned out to be perfect and a steal for the money. Comfortable bed, clean bathroom, and cash only. They also made Museum reservations for us.

Vernazza – La Mala (140 Euro per night)

I wanted a comfortable place with some character while we explored the Cinque Terre on the Mediterranean. That was exactly what we got. Unfortunately we could only get 2 nights.

Vernazza - Armanda (70 Euro per night)

The owner of La Mala offered us this room for our 3rd night in Vernazza. It was clean and roomy, but no view. But since we were heading out early in the morning to catch the train it worked out perfectly.

Murren – Chalet Fontana (90 Swiss Francs per night)

After viewing the accommodations offered in Murren, it seemed that most places were not worth the money. So we settled on Chalet Fontana with shared bathroom facilities. But when we arrived it turned out that the downstairs apartment was not being used so we were put up there. It had a large living area, kitchen, and large master bedroom. At no extra cost. WOW!!

Stresa – Hotel Borromees

This hotel was in the Rick Steves’ book. Not as a place to stay but as a tourist attraction! It seemed perfect for an end of trip accommodation. A stunning hotel with a magnificent breakfast. It was the only time on the trip that we decided to sit in our room and watch TV.